What a fascinating road trip I had through South-western Ontario! From the shore of Lake Erie on the third day, I turned inland to my overnight stay in St. Thomas, Ontario’s RR city, where Drumbo the elephant died. In the morning I motored across rich farm country to highway 21 along the shore of Lake Huron. Unfortunately, it seemed like half the population of Sarnia and Windsor had the same idea. I hit a massive traffic jam of vacationers heading to Port Elgin and points north or one of their properties along the shore. As I progressed, an inch at a time, a glance at the map told me that the whole shoreline from Sarnia north was populated by cottagers and small beach communities. I realized that Friday was not a day to make this journey. There was nothing to do but jog inland along country roads until I finally reached Goderich.
Goderich is Ontario’s salt capital even though few, except in winter, admit to using salt. Naturally, the occupants bill it as “the prettiest town in Canada,” an apocryphal comment attributed to Queen Elizabeth. In the harbour I found a giant laker taking on salt on one side of the harbour and huge trucks loading it from a facility on the other. The town was founded in 1828. While looking for oil in 1866, prospector Sam Platt discovered rock salt 300 metres below the surface. The present mine, the largest of its nature in the world, is 1800 feet below Lake Huron and provides the salt used on our roads in winter.
With its beach and exposure to sunsets, it is a fascinating town made extremely interesting by the design of its pioneers. The streets radiate from an octagonal in the centre of the city. Alas I couldn’t stay.
I headed north to Kincardine and then Port Elgin before reluctantly leaving the lake behind to head to my motel in Walkerton. There the rumble of a gaggle of motorcyclists gathering for some reunion serenaded me until Morpheus lulled me to sleep. In the morning I aimed my motorized steed across the heart of Ontario. Along the way I marveled again at the wealth the Creator had bestowed on this fortunate, but rather unthankful province. The only things that annoyed were the ubiquitous presence of those monuments—wind turbines—erected to satisfy someone’s fantasy about a solution to global warming, but more on that at a later time.
At Holland Marsh, north of Toronto, I got lost for a time in the roads circling this ultra rich farmland. You ask, “why didn’t you take 401, Ontario’s super highway?” Basically, it’s because I’m allergic to traffic racing along at above 120 km/hr. Not that I drive slowly. But on a road trip, I like to see the countryside as more than a blur. Anyway, at the Marsh, I got to connect even briefly with Ontario’s market garden.
The marsh was formed by the decay of organic material during the centuries after the retreat of the massive ice shield that covered much of North America. Early in 1900 the deep and rich nature of the soil was recognized but drainage did not begin until 1925 when ditches and diversions of the Holland River began to be constructed. They were completed in 1930. A few years later 18 Dutch families arrived to become the nucleus of a thriving agricultural community. More European families arrived after World War II. It is now a market garden for Canada and abroad producing carrots and onions in particular, as well as lettuce, potatoes, celery, parsnips, cabbage, cauliflower and beets. There are some greenhouses in which tomatoes, cucumbers and commercial flowers are produced. Because of my diversion I got to smell the rich soil and growing vegetables plus I could pause along the canal to watch fishermen while away the day.
My four-day road trip ended with a stop in Peterborough at Red Lobster for a feast of shrimp. I must admit that my home bed never felt so good. And yet, I think I’ll plan another road trip soon.
Country Inspiration 